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Deucalion

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Deucalion last won the day on November 9 2020

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  1. We use Antartika as our modded map (see below mod list): https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1774223836 If you still can't connect please join our discord https://discord.gg/WsdMGfe and DM @Admin Mail.
  2. hey there! if you need support for ark please DM @Admin Mail on our discord. https://discord.gg/WsdMGfe
  3. @Beenless Hey buddy you can try this link if you like: https://discord.gg/WsdMGfe
  4. Chaos Gaming Requirments: 1. Upon joining a server for the first time, you MUST set a tribe name. Tribe logs are necessary for our Admin team to give you quality support. 2. Do not log off with important items in your inventory. Any items or dinos lost while offline are your responsibility. The Soul Terminal is indestructible and will drop like a vault. store important dinos and items in there. 3. Dinos left out when offline must be set to passive. Ark Server Rules: 1. Be Respectful A. No personal/racist/sexual/discriminating attacks on any players in-game or in discord. This includes the general use of these terms in public chat channels. B. Be courteous to your neighbors in-game. Do not build next to other player structures. Common rule of thumb is to build outside render range. C. Players and tribe names cannot be offensive. D. All wild dinos and drops are first come, first serve. Please respect other users if they have engaged a dino in order to tame it. 2. Bases A. Bases cannot be larger then 50x50 foundations and are limited to 2 bases per map per player/tribe. Gated/blocked/inaccessible areas count towards the max base size. B. Caves over 50x50 MUST remain accessible to the public. C. Do not block or build around artifacts, pathways, or ramps that are part of the map. D. Do not build in resource-abundant areas. E. Building on obelisks or in their respective craters is not allowed. F. Do not leave more than 30 dinos out in your base when offline. Use the automatation in the soul terminal to produce eggs and resources. G. Pick up your taming pens when you are done using them. H. No foundation spamming. The Admin team will proactively remove foundation spam. Please help make our job easier. I. Do not build next to other player structures. J. No building on ruins or dungeon entrances. This is to protect the original dynamics of vanilla Ark for all players to enjoy. (survivor notes, exploration, etc) 3. Player Progression A. Skipping personal progression or helping players skip their progression is strictly prohibited. B. Do not leech off other player's summoned bosses. The summoner can decide who can partake in the fight, given the player meets progression criteria. Participants should bring appropriately tiered dinos and be effectively contributing to the summoned boss fight. C. Do not give tames or items to players unless they have had them in the current season. Dino trades are solely dino for dino, not tier for tier. D. Any players/tribes caught utilizing bugs/glitches/exploits that result in unintended gameplay or breaking of progression will have disciplinary action taken against them up to and including permanent account bans. E. Selling or giving away unwanted shop items to other players is prohibited. F. Do not give away ANY S+ transmitter information to other players. This includes letting them use yours. 4. Boss Summoning A. Group boss summoning with 15 or more players is to be done SOLELY on the BOSS MAP. B. Boss cages are only to be constructed on the BOSS MAP. Any cages built on other maps will be destroyed. C. Boss summon hosts are responsible for making sure that all players meet progression criteria for the fights.
  5. Deucalion

    No Rules?

    Soon™ Our Conan Exiles server will return with the 2nd machine which is why some of these sections continue to exist.
  6. Deucalion

    Referral App

    Hey @PinkFloyd Thank you for bringing your friends over! Open a ticket so I can set you up with some points.
  7. We are currently offering 10,000 points and a free month of VIP (existing VIPs will receive 20,000 points instead) to any member that uses their Server Boost on Chaos Gaming Discord! If you have an active Nitro Subscription please consider using your server boost on our discord. Once you have used the server boost please take a screenshot and open a ticket by DMing our Admin Mail bot on discord to receive your rewards. Ready to unleash the boost? As long as you have an active Nitro subscription, or an active Grandfathered Nitro (Legacy) subscription, you can boost one server through your User Settings or directly within the server of your choice. Server Guide: You’ll be able to directly boost the server through the server itself! Just click on that ✨shiny✨ purple jewel icon by the Server Name in the upper left hand corner, or click the Nitro Server Boost Button in the Server Settings dropdown menu! A popup will then appear to display the current perks and also confirm your Server Boost for this server! User Settings Guide: If you’re on the desktop or browser client, click on that cog icon on the bottom left of your window to head into your Discord Nitro tab in the User Settings! Once you’re there, click on that “Select a Server” button to start the process of bestowing your Server Boost on the server of your choice! Before you unlock the treasure to that server though, make sure you double, triple, quadruple check that you’re sending your Server Boost to the correct server! Once you’ve fully committed to your server, when you go back into the User Settings, you’ll now see your beloved boosted server shining bright in your Discord Nitro tab! After you’ve selected your absolute favorite server, your love and appreciation will be broadcasted to everyone within the channel, and you’ll see a new ✨shiny✨ purple diamond by your name in the server. BONUS: You’ll also see this new purple ✨shiny✨ badge in your User Profile to display your love for that Boosted server! You'll be able to watch that badge evolve as you continue your streak for your Server Boost! As long as you keep boosting your favorite server, that badge will continue to evolve until you reach this extra ✨✨✨ level shown below!
  8. Laylani’s Breeding Guide Hello there fellow Survivor! This guide is a resource for future breeders and even current ones who may not know *everything* there is to know about breeding in Ark: Survival Evolved. This is a lengthy document, so buckle up and grab a snack! What you Need Breeding Stock A proper hatching/birthing area Temperature Control Troughs with lots of food! Why Breed? Breeding is an incredibly useful mechanic that can give you a larger stock of animals, and much stronger animals! You can breed for something as simple as needing more kibble dinos (especially in cases of things like Dimetrodons that chug narcotics like an alcoholic on a Saturday night during a tame) or for the more complex operation of creating the “perfect” species. It will vary from server to server, as well as from tribe to tribe, on what exactly is *worth* breeding. Breeding a low level giga might not be worth it on officials where it takes 14 days to raise, but on an unofficial where it may only take a day or two, it’s much more viable. Breeding Stock If you are going for the best dinos, you will want to tame things of a high level. For a server with a max level of 120, I reccomend level 100+. If you are playing on a server with a max level of 150, you’ll probably want to tame anything 120+. However, if you are only trying to improve what you currently have, or just reproducing for more egg laying females for kibble, that is irrelevant. For servers with 120 max wild level dinos, such as mine, a 20+ point stat pre-tame is what you will *generally* look for, with a server of max wild 150, it’s probably 30+. Stats When an animal spawns into the world, it gets a random roll on stats. No stat is weighted higher than the other, so it is random what it will get. Pure RNG. Here is what each stat does and why it may, or may, not be useful: Health: The health stat is well, health! The amount of HP they can lose before they die. This is especially useful for battle dinos who need to fight as long as possible in PvP and raid situations. Also, once an animal runs out of food (See below) they will begin to lose health. The more health they have, the longer they will starve before death. Stamina: Stamina controls how long an animal can sprint before slowing to a walk, and how long they can attack before they start building torpor. If you continue to attack with an animal after the stamina has depleted, you will start to raise your animals torpor, eventually causing it to pass out. This stat is not so useful for non-mountable animals as they only use stamina while mounted. Oxygen: Do you need a fast swimmer? Because that is how you get one! An animal with a high oxygen will swim faster than one with low oxygen. How this affects swim speed in comparison to having high movespeed is hard to say as I believe it varies per dino. Food: Having a high food stat means you can survive much longer out and about before running out of food, this is especially useful for PvP dinos such as Pteranodons. Pteranodons can last longer in the air if they have a higher food stat before being forced to retreat to find sustenance. Once your food stat is depleted, your animal will begin starving to death and start taking HP damage. Weight: This affects the amount your animal can carry. Easy enough to figure out. Higher weight = more stuff. Especially useful for farming animals, pack mules, and war animals that need to carry you and your raid kit from point A to point B. Pteranodons do not have a very high weight stat, but are often used in raids. You will need a Pteranodon that can carry you and all of your gear comfortably without slowing you down. Melee: Melee affects two things. Gathering materials, and dealing damage. The higher your melee stat is the more you will gather per node when you mine things such as wood, metal, stone etc. It will also increase your damage output in order to kill wild critters, tamed critters, or even people. Note: When you breed in melee, the first generations melee will seem boosted. The melee always comes out to 100% efficiency during breeding, which the parents did not get via tame. Speed: These are commonly referred to as things like “hidden levels”, “Wasted points”, “glamour levels” etc. A creature can get a point into movespeed in the wild however it will not boost their movespeed. It just serves as a hidden value in the end that boosts your overall level. Thus being called a “wasted point”. Many people still choose to breed in speed stats as it will boost the base level of the animal, and while that is usually only for glamour, it’s also useful to give your animal a higher torpor stat. (Torpor is directly related to level and cannot be leveled up). Which means it can get hit with more tranq’s before passing out. Glamour Levels Since I mentioned it above, I will make a quick blurb. On my pteranodons we focus on our HP, Stamina, Weight, and Melee. Once those are perfectly bred in, however we work on breeding in the food and oxygen stats. While Oxygen doesn't do anything for a ptera because they cannot touch water unless unconscious, it will boost the final level of the babies. This meaning we could have a 230 ptera instead of a 213 ptera by going from low o2 and speed stats, to high ones. These levels pretty much mean nothing and thus we call them our "glamour levels". Storing Your Stats If you have intentions on breeding a nice line, you want to take note of exactly what stats you have for your creatures. You can do this a number of ways. One way many prefer to do it is by creating folders in the inventory of their animals with the stats written there. This is great for keeping track of things on a singular creature but when you are trying to improve your line it can become confusing and tedious as you will have to check through each one individually. You can also use spreadsheets, either handwritten or digital. I used to have a very nice notebook full of my creatures stats and enjoyed that very much. My personal suggestion for your stats would be to use the program known as ARK Smart Breeding. I did not used to like this tool and it took me a bit of time to fully understand it, but it turns out it is an incredible tool and it is now all I use for my breeding. You will find a link to this tool down in the tools section at the end of this guide. When you are recording a stat for breeding you want to look at the base stats. These are your unimprinted, unlevelled, post tame stats. Pretame stats mean nothing, they are simply a gauge on whether or not the post tame stats might come out nice (doesn’t always mean anything though). Further, imprinting and levelling will not affect the stats passed down to the baby either. Using ARK Smart Breeding This tool can be a bit confusing but once you get used to it, it can make all the difference in the world when you start breeding, so I will show you a quick step by step on using the tool here. What Stats Does Breeding Pull From? Breeding in ARK is all based on the post tame, un-levelled, un-imprinted stats. For example. My 116 ankylo that I just knocked out has 230% melee damage pretame. I kibble tame it, and viola, post tame it stands up with 334%. This is the melee the children have a chance to inherit (see melee section above). It does not matter if I level him up to have 600% melee, this will not affect his children at all, only the 334% he stood up with. Also, imprinting will not carry on down to children Facilities Your Nursery In order to successfully birth babies, you will need a place to do it! Now, you can just wing it and birth it out in the open next to a trough, but for the most security and best chance of success, you will want a dedicated nursery. This could be just part of a room (like the back corner of your dino pen), or a whole room of its own. Let’s take a look at mine, which is its own separate little building. The above building is my hatchery. It is 5 units tall, 8 wide, and 5 deep. As you can see, there is a ramp that goes up to bypass the first part of the building. That compartment underneath is where I house my generator and air conditioners. This keeps the room above where I do my hatching free of clutter. (See below). Currently I only have roughly 23 AC’s in there, but I planned to put more in. Not because it is necessary but because then I will have more floor space available for incubating large amounts of large eggs. This amount of air conditioners is enough to incubate any egg in the snow biome, including Wyverns. TIP: If you wish to breed larger animals you will need a larger pen. The size of this pen can easily be altered to accommodate larger animals. The front section is 8 wide, and can easily be refitted with a behemoth gate. Then making the roof taller and extending the back wall out is recommended. If you want to raise a giganotosaurus entirely inside (minus taking it outside for walks) you will need a facility of at least 8x8 on the floor, though 8x12 is better, and 10 walls high. This will give you plenty of room to raise a giga or two. The inside of the nursery is spacious and clean. No clutter for the babies to get stuck on. This room is not suitable to fully grow large animals to adulthood. A rex will fit inside, although very limited on space but things such as paracers, spinos, quetzals, gigas, wyverns etc will need more space to grow than this. In this case you would want a larger nursery. (I however, detest behemoth gates and refuse to use them!) When my larger animals get too big for the nursery I just kite them outside and allow them to grow up there, But I generally stick to breeding my argents, bears, and Tapejaras. This may not be ideal for those on official PvP servers as PvP can be more intense and risky. There are eleven fridges on the inside for easy meat, berry, and kibble storage. Also, there are two feeding troughs on the inside and two on the outside. More troughs and fridges may be necessary for your breeding needs! Especially if you are on an official server with longer breed times or if you are breeding a large number of animals all at once. In the front I have recently added two preserving bins and a vessel.(Although I should at least have more vessels) This is for raising baby wyverns as the milk cannot be stored within the fridge. Larger Image Here The painted spaces on the floor are the areas in which my AC’s have the best effect, just as a reference for myself. And of course, as any exhausted mother needs, a nice chair to sit back and relax in as she watcheds her children play! Or you know, to AFK safely while the little turds grow up. Tip: Sitting in a chair drastically reduces food and water drain! With my tests I lost 1.3 food and 7.4 water whilst standing still in my hatchery for 5 minutes. However when sitting, I only lost 0.1 food and 0.6 water in 5 minutes. Larger Image Here Thanks to the air conditioners underneath the floor, I can throw down my eggs in the middle of the room and they will incubate. The babies hatch out safely without fear of falling into or getting caught in the air conditioners. Due to the fact there is a compartment below this, if you leave your babies there for extended periods of time while you are logged out or out of render range for an extended period of time it does have the possibility of dropping your babies through to the air conditioner compartment. I have personally never had this happen to a baby, only to a bear I sat in the corner of the room for a few weeks before he finally fell through. It should be noted that allos seemingly have a worse time falling through floors than other creatures. Mating and Incubation Choosing your Pair Now it is time to choose which animals you are going to breed. Go to your spreadsheets or breeding tools and figure out which two animals would give you the best offspring. If you would like a combat mount, you generally want HP, Melee, and Stamina. If you want a farming mount, Weight and Melee are usually the go to stats. If for some reason you want a mount that is fast in the water, oxygen will help with that! When picking parents, keep in mind that it is not guaranteed that the babies will obtain the better stats from the pair, even though this is what you are aiming for. Each stat has a 70% chance. Mating Once you have decided on a pair, you need to mate them! To mate an animal you need to set it on wander. Animals will not mate if they are on follow or encumbered. Now, because they are on wander they will try to walk away so you need to do one of two things. Build them a pen just big enough for them to sit in, but without enough room for them to get far apart. Spam your “U” or “Whistle All Stop” command until they are done. If you have done everything correctly, the mating bar will appear and mating hearts will pop up above their head. (See below.) Once the mating bar fills all the way up, the mating process is complete and your animal will either start gestating if they are a mammal or lay an egg if they are not. Some species cannot currently mate, these include: Beelzebufo Ichthyosaurus Mosasaurus Plesiosaurus Megalodon Diplocaulus Achatina Angler Araneo Pulmonoscorpius Arthropleura Dung Beetle Dunkleosteus Manta Onyc Rock Golem Wyvern Mantis Now, keep in mind that just because you chose your high health male and high damage female, that does not mean the offspring will come out with either of those stats! (See Choosing Your Pair). Cooldowns Once you have bred a female, it will have a cooldown timer which will prevent it from breeding again for a while. On 1x servers (I.e. Officials) it seems to be between 18 and 48 hours. Mammals Vs. Egg Layers Breeding mammals can be an entirely different playing field. Once a mammals gestation has started it cannot be stopped and that baby will pop out at the end of the timer, whether you are ready for it or not. Eggs on the other hand can be picked up at any time and they will pause the incubation meter. If your egg is 50% incubated when you pick it up, it will be 50% when you throw it back down. At this point you can store it in a fridge, box, whatever without worry that it will hatch. While the egg is in an inventory it will not require any insulation for incubating. You can store it anywhere. Incubation/Gestation For mammals it is simple, they require absolutely no attention during pregnancy and will just pop out the baby at the end of the gestation period (The gestation bar starts at 0% and fills up to 100%). It is said that the females will eat more food than usual during this time, but given that animals don’t use much food at all while sitting idly, I have never noticed this. Eggs however, need to be incubated (Eggs start at 100% and deplete to 0%). Some species like it to be colder, while others prefer it warm. You can find a more detailed list with this information here. The most efficient way to incubate your eggs is with air conditioners. Each air conditioner gives a set amount of by hypothermic and hyperthermic insulation in a radius around them. From my tests is around 100 insulation per air conditioner, although the numbers in my tests were not exact. If you do not have air conditioners or are playing on a primitive server where air conditioners are not an option, you can do a number of other things to incubate your eggs. Your first option is to test your temperature at various times of the day and see if it will incubate without help. If it is too cold, you can try waiting til midday or moving to a warmer location, like the south. If it is too warm you can try waiting until night time when the air cools, move up to a higher elevation (up a mountain), or into the snow biome. If neither of those options work, you can look into using items. If the egg is too cold you can use any kind of item that uses fire. Campfires, standing torches and fireplaces are wonderful options for this. Standing torches take up the least amount of room and can be clustered pretty close together. Each standing torch or campfire gives about 100 hypothermal insulation (-50 hyperthermal) whereas a fireplace gives about 285 hypothermal insulation. Your final set of options are biological options! There are two animals in the game that you can use to incubate eggs. The Kairuku and the Dimetrodon. The Kairuku gives 35 hypothermic insulation over a small radius while the dimetrodon gives 90 hypothermic and 90 hyperthermic insulation over a small radius. While the Dimetrodon seems like the obvious choice, it is much, much harder to tame than the Kairuku. (A 150 Dimetrodon on Official Servers will take about 3 hours on quetzal kibble and 2,000 narcotics. A 150 Kairuku will take half an hour on prime with 58 narcotics.) Egg Health Beneath the incubation bar on an egg, there is also an egg health bar. This health will slowly tick down if the egg is too hot or too cold. Egg health will not tick down if it is at an appropriate temperature. If your eggs health bar hits 0 it will spoil. (NOTE: WHEN YOU GO TO PUT AN EGG ON THE GROUND TO INCUBATE DO NOT CLICK “Use Item” OR PUT IT IN YOUR HOTBAR THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO EAT YOUR EGG! INSTEAD, USE THE “Drop Item” BUTTON OR “O” KEY) Babies Birthing/Hatching When you birth or hatch a creature, it will pop out of the womb/shell as a tamed, unclaimed creature. This means that if you have any turrets in the area set to “Players and Tamed Dinos” those WILL target your baby and probably kill it. Turn all turrets in the room to “Players Only” or turn them off for this step. When the baby pops out, you will then need to quickly go up to it and press “E” just as you would claim any other unclaimed dino. It will then give you the name prompt. Name it if you like, and then open its inventory. Babies need to be fed immediately after birth and will not eat from a trough. Also keep in mind that babies are set to wandering by default so you will want to disable this so it doesn’t wander off while your back is turned! Baby Stage When a baby is born its health, melee, and weight stats are capped at a very low number. This invisible cap will slowly rise to full as it reached adulthood. Due to this, babies will starve very quickly and cannot carry much food in the first few minutes/hours of life. You can see how long a baby phase will take on your server here. (This is not entirely up to date for the most recent dinos at this time.) During the baby phase you must hand feed it by placing food directly into its inventory. If it runs out of food, it will start to starve, once its food hits 0 the HP will drain and it will eventually die. Don't let your babies go unfed! The baby will exit the baby phase at 10% to which it will turn juvenile. It is easy to calculate when this will occur. My Procoptodons are born with a max 783 weight, once the baby cap reaches 78.3 that it is able to hold, it will turn juvenile. Until fully matured, babies will not attack anything and will flee from dangers. If someone were to come in and kill you while you were taking care of a baby, it would try to flee, much like a wild parasaur. Babies also cannot be mounted. Juveniles It’s time for you to take a break! Now your baby is a juvenile! This means they can now eat from a trough, and as long as you keep this trough stocked you can go about your day and do other things. Adolescents There really isn't anything different between adolescents and juvies. They will hit the adolescent stage at 50% maturation. Food consumption slows down after this point. Troughs One piece of raw meat lasts about 40 minutes in a trough and with 20 per stack, they will all spoil in approximately 13 hours, give or take. Fish meat however will last twice as long but gives half the amount of nutrition (26 hours). If you will be gone longer than that, fill up with cooked meat as well which will last about an hour per (I think) and stacks up to 30. In which case it would last 30 hours. (But again, make sure there's enough!) Raw meat will restore 50 points of food, whereas cooked meat will only restore 25 points. Keep this in mind when deciding what food to give your dinos. It will take twice as much cooked meat to feed a baby as raw, but cooked meat will last longer. I usually do a mix between the two. Raw to start and cooked incase it runs out of that. Kibble is also a viable option to use in troughs as an emergency supply. Certain kibbles such as dodo and Kairuku can be found in abundance and restore 80 food per kibble. Kibble also lasts 3 hours per kibble standard and at least twice that in the trough. There is a trough calculator on the crumple corn breeding page linked above in the baby section. (Note: Spoilage times are different on Scorched Earth.) Imprinting Imprinting is an optional, but very beneficial mechanic. You will not get any penalties for not imprinting. As per the standard, only one person is able to imprint on a baby and it will be the person who claims it when it is born. This can be changed in server settings to allow tribe mates to imprint as well I think. After it is born, a timer will start. At standard, that timer is anywhere from about 3-4 hours on officials. For my server it’s anywhere from 25-35 minutes. Once this timer hits 0 the baby will want one of three things: Kibble, cuddles, or a walk. (See below) Cuddles: This is the easiest imprint step and you should cross your fingers and pray for lots of these. To cuddle your animal all you need to do is walk up and press “E”. Walking: Walking your baby isn’t bad, unless it’s a big one! In order to take them for a walk you need to look at them and press “T” or hold E and open the radial menu and enable following. Then, start walking. Once they have walked far enough they will stop and do their happy little imprint dance. Note: This seems to be a “distance from point A” type of thing, not a “number of steps” type of thing, so walking them in circles doesn’t seem to imprint them. Due to the size of some animals, you may need to change their follow distance to lowest to get them to follow you easily for a walk. This especially applies to things like Gigas. Kibble: This is the most time consuming part about imprinting, and by that I don’t mean the actual act. If you have the kibble on hand it takes a mere few seconds. However, you need to have a kibble farm in order to obtain these. I recommend keeping a few of each kibble on the below list in a fridge nearby where you will be raising babies so you do not have to run back and forth for imprints. The imprint kibble list includes the following: For The Island / The Center Ankylosaurus Dilophosaurus Dimetrodon Dimorphodon Dodo Gallimimus Lystrosaurus Pachy Parasaur Pteranodon Raptor Stegosaurus Trike And for Scorched Earth they are: Ankylosaurus Camelsaurus (Morellatops) Gallimimus Lystrosaurus Mantis Parasaur Raptor Terror Bird Thorny Dragon Vulture A 100% imprint will net you a 20% gain in Health, Melee, Weight, Food and Speed. Stamina and Oxygen seem unaffected. These base stat gains are beneficial to all those using the animal, even if they themselves did not imprint it. However, there is a rider bonus that ONLY the imprinter will receive. At 100% imprint it is equivalent to the mateboost buff. While you are riding it, they will obtain +30% damage and damage reduction. If you only imprint to 50% your rider bonus will be +15%, 75% will give you a roughly 22% bonus, and so on and so forth. Mutations As of v252 there seem to be only positive mutations to creatures. They can come in the form of stat mutations or color mutations. Incest does not seem to boost your chances of mutations. It seems that mutations can be passed down to their offspring, but it is not guaranteed. Stat Mutations: As of current information, it seems that stat mutations give a +2 bonus to a random stat. Rumors say a 100% imprinted dino gives a better chance at these stats. Unable to confirm as I have yet to get one on my bear line whose main stud is 100% imprinted. Color Mutations: A color mutation on a dino is limited to one color region. These colors can appear in any of the current possible colors on the ARK wiki. You will find these colors here! These colors can be anything from a bright cyan or pink, to a black or brown. Sometimes you will not entirely realize a baby has mutated unless you line it up beside the parents and take a look. I had a baby Therizino mutate and was unable to tell until I put them side by side and realized it had a lighter back color than both parents. Credit: Reddit user /u/cmack23 Credit: Reddit user /u/MaddogBC Credit: Reddit user /u/silverbullet1989 Credit: Reddit user /u/Amariels Tools Here are a list of all the tools I am aware of thus far for taming and breeding purposes. Taming Crumplecorn (Not currently up to date with newest dinosaurs) Survive Ark Stat Calculator (Doesn’t correctly calculate tamed melee stats) Survive Ark Taming Calculator Breeding ARK Smart Breeding Tool (Highly Recommended) (Look under “Stats” for a tutorial) Crumplecorn (Not currently up to date with newest dinosaurs) Survive Ark Breeding Stat Calculator And you can create spreadsheets here if you decide to go that route. Credit: @Laylani Contact Laylani! If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions regarding this document feel free to contact Laylani on Steam or Reddit. Happy Breeding!
  9. Celestial Power-Up System Keep Scrolling Down To See More Info | | V Key Binding: Control + C Affect: When using the celestial power up ability, Stamina drains rapidly. This stops when you turn off the power up or dismount Celestial gains 150% melee damage, receives 25% less damage, and is immune to all status effects Toxic System Attack: Secondary Melee Affect: When using the toxic secondary melee attack. This uses a large chunk of stamina. Continued use will dip into torpor. Unchecked usage will result in creature passing out Caustic System Attack: Secondary Attack Affect: Drops an acid cloud bomb directly below your creature when you hit the button. Acid cloud does damage on hit, plus damage over time for anything inside. It also slows down targets inside and drains stamina. Attack will also knock out players, just like a torpor poison trap. Is 100% gas maskable to prevent this. Corruption You can now corrupt your creatures. This only applies to creatures that naturally have a corruption variant. Corrupted creatures deal 125-150% melee damage, and receive 20% less damage than their non-corrupt counterpart. But they also require a corrupted nodule every hour to remain corrupted. If you leave your corrupted dino without a nodule and an hour ellapses, it will untame, go wild, and attack anything around it. It will become untameable as well, so you must then be force to put your pet down. In order to corrupt your dino, craft a corruption spore, put it in your dino inventory, open the interaction wheel and selection "Corrupt Dino". Corruption only works on alpha, apex, fabled, and celestial tiers. When corrupting your dino, the resulting dino is an exactly duplicate of the previous one, right down to the custom name, tamed levels, pumped levels, and levels available. WARNING: Corrupting is a one way street. Once corrupted, you can not uncorrupt your dino! Before corrupting, remove saddle and empty inventory of all items you wish to keep as they will get deleted. Corruption only exists for dinos that Wild Card built a corrupted mesh for. Ascension You can now ascend your Celestial creatures. In order to do this, aquire the ascension item from defeating the new and improved Pikkon the creator tier 5 boss. The item is used in the crafting recipe for the subsequent engram that gets unlocked. After you have crafted the item necessary to ascend, place the item inside your celestial, open the interaction wheel, and select "Ascend Dino". While you CAN corrupt your celestial, doing so makes the creature ineligible for ascension, as it is no longer pure. You can, however, corrupt your ascended creature. This final corrupted ascended dino is the most powerful player owned creature in the mod. It, though, does require corrupted nodules to keep loyal to you. The ascended dino does NOT keep the previous dino's wild or tamed stats. The ascended dino will spawn at the level of which the previous dino was at, allowing you to further level the ascended dino to new heights. WARNING: Remove all items, including saddle, from creature before you ascend or corrupt. Anything left on the dino post ascension or corruption will be deleted. You cannot Ascend a corrupted Celestial, but you CAN corrupt an ascended Celestial Celestial melee/defense multiplers for each stage: Celestial | Normal: 1/1, Powered up: 1.5/0.75 Corrupted | Normal: 1.25/0.8, Powered up: 2/0.5 Ascended | Normal: 3/0.7, Powered up: 6/0.35 Corrupted Ascended| 4/0.6, Powered up: 7/0.25 Indom Taming the Indom Rex is not wild knock out tameable. In the wild, all indoms spawn in mate boosted pairs. In order to get your own indom (Aside from the celestial emperor), you must attack the female and get her down to 10% health or below. Once the female gets hit while under 10% health, it will drop a fertilized egg. You must then steal this egg and hatch it yourself. Be warned though. Stealing the indom egg will alert any indoms and raptors of all tiers within a wide range. PRIMAL FEAR GENERAL INFORMATION Toxic: 3x Alpha: 5x Elemental Basic: 7.5x Apex: 10x Elemental Advanced (Light & Dark): 14x Fabled: 16x Celestial/Demonic: 25-30x (With the exception of health and torpor) Chaos/Spirit: 35-45x (With the exception of health and torpor) Buffoon and Elder dinos do not have a set multiplier. They are just fun dinos. This is also due to resizing larger dinos for elder tier, making their damage match their size, then apply multipliers. Thus no one multiplier can be given. SPIRIT & CHAOS GUARDIAN INFORMATION The summoners for the Spirit and Chaos Guardians are given as an engram upon the death of the Pikkon, the Creator. These guardians are the ultimate boss. Rulers of the dark and light world. Masters of Chaos and Order. Upon killing, you will be granted an engram for the taming orbs for other dinos in the Chaos and Spirit tier. There are currently 6 tiers of bosses Tier 0: Mini Bosses This tier currently includes Captain Black Boulder and Artifacto. These are bosses that can give special loot or tames. Special Loot: Captain Black Boulder: Call to port. Can summon a tameable version of this boss. Knock out tame by normal means. Feed sulfur or meat. Artifacto: This boss drops between 1 - 3 different artifacts when killed Tier 1: Primals These are black with a red glow around them. They also have a red mist and play music. These only spawn in the wild. Special Loot: Primal Costumes Primal Souls Primal Blood Tier 2: Origins These are black and yellow. They have a yellow glow that can be seen at night, have a yellow mist and play music. These can be found in the wild or summoned Special Loot: 90% Chance of Origin Armor Special Loot: Captain Black Boulder: Call to port. Can summon a tameable version of this boss. Knock out tame by normal means. Feed sulfur or meat. Artifacto: This boss drops between 1 - 3 different artifacts when killed Tier 1: Primals These are black with a red glow around them. They also have a red mist and play music. These only spawn in the wild. Special Loot: Primal Costumes Primal Souls Primal Blood Tier 2: Origins These are black and yellow. They have a yellow glow that can be seen at night, have a yellow mist and play music. These can be found in the wild or summoned Special Loot: 90% Chance of Origin Armor High armor rating. Does not break, will not get hot or cold Origin Costume Origin Blood Origin Engrams Origin Tribute Origin Soul Various Tek Engrams per Origin Killed Low to mid chance of Max XP Potion Tier 3: Emperor / Empress Celestial Emperor is a large Indom who can use its power up ability in the wild. The Demonic Reaper Empress is a large Reaper Queen. Use light pets to help defeat this. These have a rare chance of spawning in the wild. Reaper Empress will hide underground. Look for a significantly large heat wave above it. These can also be summoned. Special Loot: Demonic: Pieces of Demonic Armor or Demonic Sword. Spirit guardian summon unlock. Celestial: Pieces of Celestial Armor or Celestial Sword. Chaos guardian summon unlock. Tier 4: Guardians There are two forms of guardians. The Chaos Guardian is a lava based creature with flowing textures, while the Spirit guardian is a white, ghastly creature with a skeleton inside. They are the rulers of the light and dark realms. They also play music and are summon only. Special Loot: Engram for Chaos and Spirit Orbs. These are used for taming Chance to spawn Chaos/Spirit Wyvern, level matched to the Guardian you killed. Can be knocked out and fed corrosponding taming Orb Tier 5: Pikkon, the Creator This rock golem boss is ultra strong. Do not take it lightly. It is Teal and black, with a teal glow and teal mist. It is summon only. Special Loot: Full set of Creator Tek Armor. High armor rating, uses reduced element, does not break, will not get hot or cold, and removes helmet POV Primal Fear Saddle Tekgrams for PF dinos
  10. Guide/Progression ARK Prometheus is hard but when you have the prome dinos by your side it makes everything easier. This will be a guide on how to progress through the mod in the step by step detail. Step 1. Getting Started Step 2. Taming Prome Dinos Step 3. Best Dinos to Kill Prome Bosses (Obtaining Magic Potions) Step 4: Killing Bosses Step 5: Better saddles/Kamaitachi Killing 1st Watchmen 2nd Kamaitachi Boss 3rd Angel Sheep (Passive tame, Time limit) Step 6: Killing the Fenrisulfr Watchmen and Boss 1st. Fenrisulfr Watchmen 2nd. Fenrisulfr Boss 3rd. Very own Kamaitachi Cube (no saddle required) Step 7: Killing the Harpy Watchmen and Boss 1st. Harpy Watchmen 2nd. Harpy Boss 3rd. Tamed Lris Cube (Does have a saddle) Step 8: On to the breaking boundaries boss cube
  11. In honor of the new PF cluster releasing this weekend the theme for this contest will be "Fear." Try to get the scariest picture of a dino, player, or situation you can! (The winner of the previous contest will be announced in Discord later on Saturday)
  12. If you cannot find our Chaos Gaming servers in your my survivors tab, or you cannot find it by searching keyword "Chaos" in the unofficial tab. You can try the following steps instead: 1: Bring up your steam window (store, library, etc.) and at the top left of the window you should see "Steam, View, Friends, Games, Help" 2: Click View and mouse down the list of options to Servers. This should bring up a new window called Servers and you should see 6 tabs (Internet, Favorites, History, Spectate, Lan) 3: Go to the Favorites Tab and check if you see the server. If you do, skip to step 5. If you do not see the server, click "ADD A SERVER" and copy/paste this 66.70.180.210:28010 and then click FIND GAMES AT THIS ADDRESS... You should now see the server name and players connected. 4: Once you see the server, click ADD SELECTED GAME SERVER TO FAV... 5: Now Launch Ark:Survival Evolved and click Join Ark, then change your Server filter to "Favorites" and join the server!
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